Why Are My Photos Blurry?
There a few reasons why your photos may be blurry or out of focus and with a couple tips you can make sure your pictures turn out amazing and super sharp.
1. The object in the photo was moving.
Example: If a sprinter can run 100 meters in under 10 seconds and you are using a 1/4 second shutter speed, he or she will have traveled over 2 meters in that time. But at 1/1000 of a second, that sprinter traveled only 1 cm.
Solution: When taking photos of fast moving objects, I set my camera to a specific shutter speed, usually 1/200 or faster, and let it adjust the aperature and iso automatically given the lighting conditions. Another solution is to simply move the camera with the object before and after taking the photo. This will create a sense of motion in your photo as the object will appear in focus while the background will be blurry.
2. The camera is moving or shaking.
Solution: Use a tripod if possible. Better yet, use a tripod with a wired remote. Best, use a tripod with a wired remote and mirror lockup enabled if using a SLR. Not all camera's have this feature but it prevents the mechanical movements within the camera from causing vibration. If you do not have remote for your camera, you can always use the 2 or 10 second delay for the same effect. As in problem number one above, your shutter speed will also affect whether you need a tripod or not. A shutter speed anywhere close to one second long will be blurry unless you have a tripod. Check out this link on how to avoid camera shake.
3. Part of the picture is in focus, but everything else is extremely blurry.
Solution: Adjust the aperature accordingly. A wide open aperature (smaller number) is going to create bokeh which may sometimes be desired. However at extremes, there will be such a shallow depth of field that for example one pedal of flower may be in focus, but the other one is not. Setting a specific aperature and allowing the camera to adjust shutter speed and iso will allow you to take control and style your photo as you desire.
4. The camera is not focused on the correct object.
Solution: There are several possible solutions to this problem but they may not be successful in all scenarios. First you can try the focus lock method by pointing the camera directly on the desired object and then recomposing the picture while holding the trigger button half way. This makes it easier for the camera to find the object. Second, you can change the autofocus mode to have the camera adjust its algorithms for tracking objects in motion. Another possibility is to try and use the manual focus. If your camera has a liveview setting and you are using a tripod, you can zoom in digitally and adjust the focus manually far more accurately than you could with the viewfinder. A smaller aperature (bigger number) will create a larger depth of field and allow more of the frame to be in focus and sharp.
These are the root problems that may make your photos blurry or out of focus. Often you can make adjustments to correct for these problems and if you know to expect them, you will take great photos. Higher end equipment is undoubtedly better at creating sharper images, but there are numerous techniques to try before spending more money.
1. The object in the photo was moving.
Example: If a sprinter can run 100 meters in under 10 seconds and you are using a 1/4 second shutter speed, he or she will have traveled over 2 meters in that time. But at 1/1000 of a second, that sprinter traveled only 1 cm.
Solution: When taking photos of fast moving objects, I set my camera to a specific shutter speed, usually 1/200 or faster, and let it adjust the aperature and iso automatically given the lighting conditions. Another solution is to simply move the camera with the object before and after taking the photo. This will create a sense of motion in your photo as the object will appear in focus while the background will be blurry.
2. The camera is moving or shaking.
Solution: Use a tripod if possible. Better yet, use a tripod with a wired remote. Best, use a tripod with a wired remote and mirror lockup enabled if using a SLR. Not all camera's have this feature but it prevents the mechanical movements within the camera from causing vibration. If you do not have remote for your camera, you can always use the 2 or 10 second delay for the same effect. As in problem number one above, your shutter speed will also affect whether you need a tripod or not. A shutter speed anywhere close to one second long will be blurry unless you have a tripod. Check out this link on how to avoid camera shake.
3. Part of the picture is in focus, but everything else is extremely blurry.
Solution: Adjust the aperature accordingly. A wide open aperature (smaller number) is going to create bokeh which may sometimes be desired. However at extremes, there will be such a shallow depth of field that for example one pedal of flower may be in focus, but the other one is not. Setting a specific aperature and allowing the camera to adjust shutter speed and iso will allow you to take control and style your photo as you desire.
4. The camera is not focused on the correct object.
Solution: There are several possible solutions to this problem but they may not be successful in all scenarios. First you can try the focus lock method by pointing the camera directly on the desired object and then recomposing the picture while holding the trigger button half way. This makes it easier for the camera to find the object. Second, you can change the autofocus mode to have the camera adjust its algorithms for tracking objects in motion. Another possibility is to try and use the manual focus. If your camera has a liveview setting and you are using a tripod, you can zoom in digitally and adjust the focus manually far more accurately than you could with the viewfinder. A smaller aperature (bigger number) will create a larger depth of field and allow more of the frame to be in focus and sharp.
These are the root problems that may make your photos blurry or out of focus. Often you can make adjustments to correct for these problems and if you know to expect them, you will take great photos. Higher end equipment is undoubtedly better at creating sharper images, but there are numerous techniques to try before spending more money.
Stream Crossings in the Backcountry
One of the most dangerous activities while hiking or backpacking is crossing a stream or river. Many hikers will try to cross dangerous stacks of logs or jump from rock to rock. This often results in injury and is almost always done soley for comfort.
My trail crew recently built a bridge over a stream and it was amazing to see the risks that hikers took trying to keep their feet dry. Several people nearly wiped out on the old trail and a hiker had actually broken a leg a couple weeks earlier.
Some tips for safe stream crossings:
1. Scout the stream or river for safe crossing spots. Watch the water speed and depth and look for wide spots.
2. Face upstream while crossing. In groups you can cross in a chain with the strongest person upstream and the rest of the group in the wake of the first person. Another method is forming a triangle with three people.
3. Use a stick to form a tripod so that you always have two points of contact.
4. Wear shorts to reduce the drag.
5. Release your hip belt and sternum strap so that you can get out of your pack if you lose your balance and fall in the water.
My trail crew recently built a bridge over a stream and it was amazing to see the risks that hikers took trying to keep their feet dry. Several people nearly wiped out on the old trail and a hiker had actually broken a leg a couple weeks earlier.
Some tips for safe stream crossings:
1. Scout the stream or river for safe crossing spots. Watch the water speed and depth and look for wide spots.
2. Face upstream while crossing. In groups you can cross in a chain with the strongest person upstream and the rest of the group in the wake of the first person. Another method is forming a triangle with three people.
3. Use a stick to form a tripod so that you always have two points of contact.
4. Wear shorts to reduce the drag.
5. Release your hip belt and sternum strap so that you can get out of your pack if you lose your balance and fall in the water.
Using the MSR Whisperlite Backpacking Stove
Understanding how a MSR Whisperlite stove works is essential to reducing flareups and effectively priming the stove prior to lighting. The most important part of the process is how the fuel, white gas, changes from liquid in the bottle to a gas that burns with an intense flame. New users are often intimidated by the MSR Whisperlite, but if taught properly, there should be no problem lighting the stove.
Pressurizing the Fuel Bottle
White gas is stored as a liquid and put under pressure in the fuel bottle. The pressure, created by the fuel pump, forces the liquid white gas through the metal tube into the stove. Pumping the fuel bottle until resistence is felt will result in adequate pressure. The number of pumps will depend upon the amount of fuel in the bottle.
Heat Feedback
If you look closely at the path of the white gas, you will notice a loop that takes the liquid fuel above the flame
when the stove is operating. This is an essential stage called heat feedback. Heet feedback means that when the stove is burning, the flame heats the white gas up to the point that it turns from liquid to gas, much like water changes to steam at water's boiling point. Here is a diagram of that change from liquid to gas.
This process occurs when the stove is already started and burning. But how do I get to that point, where the gas is hot enough that it changes from liquid to gas?
Priming the MSR Whisperlite Stove
This is where the primer cup comes into play. If the white gas is still in liquid form when it makes it through the fuel line, it will collect in the primer cup. The liquid white gas in the primer cup then should be lighted with the fuel valve on the bottle closed. Lighting this heats up the very end of the fuel line and some of the remaing fuel in the line, creating enough heat to change the liquid to gas. This heated gas rises up through the stove and starts making a slight hissing sound. You may have to experiment with how much fuel is allowed into the primer cup to do this.
Lighting the MSR Whisperlite Stove
The next step, lighting the stove, is often made much more difficult than is necessary. The easiest method is to simply wait for all the fuel in the primer cup to burn up, turn the fuel valve back on, and light the stove at the top, much like lighting any gas grill. The stove may burn with an intense blue flame right away, but sometimes the heat feedback, mentioned earlier, needs a little longer to be completely effective. The more difficult method is to turn on the fuel while there is still liquid white gas in the primer cup, but enough heat to for the hissing sound to be started. It is a matter of timing.
Advanced MSR Whisperlite Techniques
Simmering can be achieved by reducing the pressure in the fuel bottle after the stove has been started and heated up. Turn the fuel off, let the flames burn out, and twist off the fuel pump until pressure is relieved. Afterwards, simply pump the bottle fewer times than you normally would and light the stove again.
MSR Whisperlite Maintenance
The most effective and common maintenance for the MSR Whisperlite is to simply shake. At the very end of the fuel line is the shaker jet, a tiny needle that is free to move up and down. By shaking the stove, carbon buildup is removed. The shaker jet should make a slight rattling sound.
The second most effective and common maintenance for the MSR Whisperlite is cleaning the fuel line. Cleaning the fuel line consists of pulling out and pushing in the cable that is within the fuel line. This removes the carbon buildup that limits the flow of fuel. You can use different tools for this, but the one that comes with the stove
works well. If this is done regularly, it is a simple task and the cable will freely move. If not, it may take considerable effort to get it all the way back in, repeating the in and out until all carbon has been removed. Be careful not to damage the cable.
Safety Considerations
1. Watch for leaks from the fuel pump and check o-rings.
2. Do not step, lean, or reach over the stove.
3. If there is too much fuel in the primer cup, leave the stove and let some evaporate prior to lighting.
4. Always handle boiling water carfully.
5. Do not use water to put out white gas fires, smother the fire with whatever is available; dirt, aluminum wind screen, pot/pan, etc..
6. Keep food and fuel separate. Some fuel will remain in the fuel line after the stove is out and needs to be drained appropriately.
What Next?
If you have mastered the workings of the MSR Whisperlite stove, I suggest you try making a pop can alcohol stove that weighs about one ounce!
Pressurizing the Fuel Bottle
White gas is stored as a liquid and put under pressure in the fuel bottle. The pressure, created by the fuel pump, forces the liquid white gas through the metal tube into the stove. Pumping the fuel bottle until resistence is felt will result in adequate pressure. The number of pumps will depend upon the amount of fuel in the bottle.
Heat Feedback
If you look closely at the path of the white gas, you will notice a loop that takes the liquid fuel above the flame
when the stove is operating. This is an essential stage called heat feedback. Heet feedback means that when the stove is burning, the flame heats the white gas up to the point that it turns from liquid to gas, much like water changes to steam at water's boiling point. Here is a diagram of that change from liquid to gas.
This process occurs when the stove is already started and burning. But how do I get to that point, where the gas is hot enough that it changes from liquid to gas?
Priming the MSR Whisperlite Stove
This is where the primer cup comes into play. If the white gas is still in liquid form when it makes it through the fuel line, it will collect in the primer cup. The liquid white gas in the primer cup then should be lighted with the fuel valve on the bottle closed. Lighting this heats up the very end of the fuel line and some of the remaing fuel in the line, creating enough heat to change the liquid to gas. This heated gas rises up through the stove and starts making a slight hissing sound. You may have to experiment with how much fuel is allowed into the primer cup to do this.
Lighting the MSR Whisperlite Stove
The next step, lighting the stove, is often made much more difficult than is necessary. The easiest method is to simply wait for all the fuel in the primer cup to burn up, turn the fuel valve back on, and light the stove at the top, much like lighting any gas grill. The stove may burn with an intense blue flame right away, but sometimes the heat feedback, mentioned earlier, needs a little longer to be completely effective. The more difficult method is to turn on the fuel while there is still liquid white gas in the primer cup, but enough heat to for the hissing sound to be started. It is a matter of timing.
Advanced MSR Whisperlite Techniques
Simmering can be achieved by reducing the pressure in the fuel bottle after the stove has been started and heated up. Turn the fuel off, let the flames burn out, and twist off the fuel pump until pressure is relieved. Afterwards, simply pump the bottle fewer times than you normally would and light the stove again.
MSR Whisperlite Maintenance
The most effective and common maintenance for the MSR Whisperlite is to simply shake. At the very end of the fuel line is the shaker jet, a tiny needle that is free to move up and down. By shaking the stove, carbon buildup is removed. The shaker jet should make a slight rattling sound.
The second most effective and common maintenance for the MSR Whisperlite is cleaning the fuel line. Cleaning the fuel line consists of pulling out and pushing in the cable that is within the fuel line. This removes the carbon buildup that limits the flow of fuel. You can use different tools for this, but the one that comes with the stove
works well. If this is done regularly, it is a simple task and the cable will freely move. If not, it may take considerable effort to get it all the way back in, repeating the in and out until all carbon has been removed. Be careful not to damage the cable.
Safety Considerations
1. Watch for leaks from the fuel pump and check o-rings.
2. Do not step, lean, or reach over the stove.
3. If there is too much fuel in the primer cup, leave the stove and let some evaporate prior to lighting.
4. Always handle boiling water carfully.
5. Do not use water to put out white gas fires, smother the fire with whatever is available; dirt, aluminum wind screen, pot/pan, etc..
6. Keep food and fuel separate. Some fuel will remain in the fuel line after the stove is out and needs to be drained appropriately.
What Next?
If you have mastered the workings of the MSR Whisperlite stove, I suggest you try making a pop can alcohol stove that weighs about one ounce!
Homemade Pressurized Alcohol Stove For Ultralight Backpacking
In the last few days I have been researching how to build a homemade alcohol stove out of pop cans for backpacking. I found directions for several different designs at zenstoves.net and decided to try making the pressurized type. Here are some specs and the pictures documenting the process.
Specs:
2 cups time to boil: ~5 minutes
time to prime: ~10 seconds
weight: < 1 ounce
capacity: 1.5 ounces
full capacity burn time: ~8 minutes
fuel used: denatured alcohol
The two cans that will eventually become my alcohol stove.
Tool used to quickly cut the root beer cans for my alcohol stove.
The three primary pieces to my alcohol stove. The top and bottom parts with the inner wall that helps hold it together.
A completed pressurized stove that burns denatured alcohol and weighs approximately ONE OUNCE! It has an inner wall, is approximately 35 mm tall and holds a little under two ounces of alcohol. I used jb weld to attach the bolt and nut, the fiberglass wick and the top and bottom pieces of the can. I finished it off with some paint that can handle temps up to 1200.
The stove in action boiling two cups of water in a titanium pot:
